2016 Riesling Kabinett Limestone

Sourced from Kirchspiel and to a much lesser degree from Abtserde, this pungently lime- and bruised-apple-scented offering retains considerable CO2 that enhances a sense of vivacity engendered by crunchy fresh apple, juicy, pit-inflected white peach and zesty lime. The feel is firm and palpably dense, yet low alcohol guarantees buoyancy, while the chalk- and sage-tinged finish displays striking cut and clarity. This amazing ball of energy blows past any previous installment of Limestone that I can recall. And like Keller’s generic dry Riesling, it represents around 14,000 bottles. As he pointed out, “there is typically some fruit from these sites that if turned into dry wine would be inharmonious because the acidity is too high, or I would have had to deacidify it, which is something I don’t want to do. So it’s terrific option to have the option: Kabinett or [for lots suited to dryness] Von der Fels.”