1990 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles

The 1990 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is fully mature, wafting from the glass with aromas of apricot, buttered toast, iodine, waxy citrus rind and pear. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's open and resolved, with an elegantly textural attack and a vibrant core of fruit. Like many 1990 white Burgundies, this is beautifully balanced but also obviously rather fragile, but a pristinely conserved example like this still offers brilliant drinking.