2022 Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere

The Boillot family has owned the monopole vineyard Clos de la Mouchère for over 80 years – and this, the 2022 vintage, was the 39th vinified by Henri Boillot. He considers it the standard-bearer for the domaine and one that it is both an honour and pleasure to work with. “This vineyard and I are an old couple,” he says. The four-hectare walled site sits within Les Perrières, facing southeast on limestone and clay soils, and generally produces a particularly honeyed expression of the mineral site. In 2022, Boillot and his team started picking in late August, with chilling the fruit a key element for the vintage. He compares the vintage to 2020, feeling the wines are both balanced and age-worthy – and Clos de la Mouchère is singing. Aged in 75% new oak, this offers a real contrast to Les Pucelles. Boillot’s monopole Clos de la Mouchère has a richness that is instantly evident. There’s pronounced minerality but a different depth of fruit. The palate is dense and powerful, tightly wound with ripe yet vibrant fruit – peach, almost Alphonso mango at the core, with zesty lemon peel that fills the mouth. Chalky notes complement the fruit, while there’s a hint of honey on the long finish. Superb.