2005 Cotes de Nuits Villages

This relatively evolved, open wine was the first to finish malolactic fermentation apparently. Broad, evolved, jewelly nose. Charming, very fresh and lively – a real charmer, the product of 30% whole berry fermentation. Impressively long on the palate even though it doesn’t suggest it has the stuffing and structure for a very long life in bottle. (JR)

From two parcels north of Gevrey in Brochon, Esmonin’s 2005 Cote de Nuits-Villages – strikingly noir in color – smells alluringly of black raspberry, cassis and violets. Charred meat, chalk dust and licorice meet fruit and flowers on a (for its humble appellation) remarkably sweet, incipiently creamy palate. Salts, chalk, fennel, singed meat, toasted pralines, and a hint of black pepper combine beautifully with bitter-sweet black fruits in a finish of real finesse and concentration. Talk about vintage typicity and rising above one’s station! This represents a remarkable value. Sylvie Esmonin is a staunch believer in the use of whole clusters with stems (“the method of my grandfather’s day”) to enhance florality, fruit and structure, which presupposes late harvest. But she claims that this method of vinification itself helps moderate the efficiency of alcoholic conversion. In any event, levels of alcohol were the last thing noticeable as I was wowed by this year’s collection which, as usual, she planned not to begin bottling any earlier than April. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191.

Bright ruby-red. Ripe dark berries, black cherry and licorice on the nose. Ripe, sweet and sappy, with an enticing spiciness from the 25% stem element. Chewy dark fruit and spice flavors show good power. Finishes with nicely buffered tannins. This is about more than just fruit and conveys a strong impression of soil.