2014 Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Piquancy of apple pip, peach kernel and walnut are already signaled in the penetratingly high-toned nose, and when allied to chalky, stony, iodine notes make for a pithy, austere sort of palate concentration. There is an expansively mouthfilling as well as palpably extract-rich impression but at the same time generous juiciness of lemon and grapefruit, apple and white peach, plus remarkable lift and animation that follow into a vibrantly sustained, focused finish. I have the impression of looking at Keller’s blueprint for what this wine is intended to become, but the blueprint itself is mighty impressive.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Keller's 2014 Morstein Riesling GG Alte Reben comes from old Sylvaner vines that were grafted with Rieslings in 2009. The wine has a very clear and deep, darker toned stony/flinty aroma than Kirchspiel or Abtserde and shows clear stone fruit aromas along with herbal flavors. There were probably more overripe (at least highly ripe) grapes than in the Abtserde since the bouquet reveals a high density and ripe fruit aromas. Powerful and intense on the palate this is a firmly structured, terroir-driven Riesling with a lot of concentration and juiciness but, perhaps, less precision and freshness than the Abtserde at this early stadium. Indeed Keller accepts more overripe berries than in former years and rates all his grand cru grapes by daily tastings. He does not pick them before they receive a top score. He points out that the 2014 Morstein has less alcohol than the corresponding Abtserde. One can say perhaps that the Morstein reflects more the old vines on colored clay soils on limestone whereas the Abtserde is a light-footed electric dancer on the knife's edge.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.