2014 Gevrey Chambertin Les Cherbaudes

Good medium red. Slightly high-toned nose is darker, spicier and more brooding then that of the Gevrey-Chambertin Etelois; less open but also a bit diffuse. Then silkier in the mouth, offering flavors of dark cherry and brambly berries. Turns savory and quite dry on the back end, as the wine could use a bit more mid-palate stuffing to support its tannins. On the other hand, Nicolas says the tannins are the source of the wines' energy in 2014. (My tasting here began with a shallow, rather green Beaune Les Teurons that lacked material, and was followed by a skinny, undernourished Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes that showed both slightly cooked and green notes. Neither of these cuvées displayed the darker fruit character of the more successful wines at this address. Finally, the Gevrey-Chambertin Etelois, vinified with two-thirds whole clusters, displayed moderate ripeness and intensity but still finished a bit tart and green. )