2008 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees

Tasted at the Comte Liger-Belair vertical at the Château de Vosne. The 2008 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brûlées has much more sophistication than either the 2006 or 2007: more delineation here, more terroir expression that surfaces in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannin, a keen thread of acidity and gentle grip, the red berry fruit interlaced with marmalade and white pepper, long and sustained on the finish. This is clearly a level up in quality. Tasted June 2015.

(vinified with about 20% whole clusters) Knockout nose offers dark berries, smoky minerality, crushed stone and spices. Broad-shouldered, sappy and energetic; this spreads out on the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Conveys an impression of small, concentrated berries. Finishes very long, with wonderfully fine-grained tannins.

(vinified with 25% whole clusters, "mostly the tiny millerande grapes or other perfect clusters," according to Liger-Belair) Sexy, musky aromas of raspberry, pepper, herbs and smoked meat. A distinctly more savory, saline style, conveying a meaty aspect and a drier impression. This very tactile wine is less about fruit and is currently hiding its sweetness, but I find it fascinating. The yield here was just 17 hectoliters per hectare, says Liger-Belair.