2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

Fantastic complexity here with aromas of toast, biscuit, lemon, almond, chalk and some fennel. It's long, sleek and mineral, with tight, very fine bubbles and so much tension and precision. Very long and chalky finish. Disgorged end of 2023. Drink or hold.

Tasted six months on from release, the restrained quality of this vintage is shining a little brighter with its lime leaf, floral honey and green mango scents, touches of oyster shell and an emerging floral honey depth, with few signs of outgoing creaminess or nuttiness just yet. Citric juiciness drives the narrow, long palate, perfectly built for ageing; this continues to be a vintage to watch. A blend of all the grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs.

After the relatively easygoing 2012 comes the more serious 2013 vintage. A long growing season with a late harvest has marked the wine with intense acids. The aromas are also cool and intense: lemony fruit on the palate is fragranced with just a hint of coffee beans. As the wine warms in the glass, herbaceous nuances emerge (and a dusting of almonds for good measure). Full of nervy energy from start to finish, the mid-palate interjects a ripe juiciness, hinting at the oft-ignored ripeness of this vintage. The acidity and extended lees aging have imparted a delicate salinity on the long, complex finish. Phenominally phenolic! This precise and fresh rendition of Comtes de Champagne may threaten to topple 2008 from its throne in the decades ahead. Excellent! (5 Star Wine)