2022 Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Garenne

I appreciate that this sounds as though I lack imagination but once again there is a distinct coolness to the restrained nose that grudgingly offers up its combination of white flower, Granny Smith apple, lemongrass and plenty of smoky mineral reduction. On the palate the medium weight flavors exude an almost palpable stoniness that the mouthfeel is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around while the bone-dry, crisp and moderately austere finale flashes excellent length. This is impressive and also quite tightly wound so at least moderate patience is strongly advised. Drink 2032+

The Clos de la Garenne is an enclave surrounded by woods — one can well imagine a rabbit warren (garenne) here. It is just down the slope from the Pernot family vines in Jacquelotte and up from Boillot's Clos de la Mouchère. In 2022, it produced a wine with abundant tension and lemony fruit with an accent of flint and flowers. Philippe Abadie mentions that good access to water helps it ripen in a hot year; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters in a vertical press and fermented with all their lees in older casks.

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de La Garenne 1er Cru seemed to have a sulfur issue when I tasted it. Just a bit eggy at first, although that does recede with aeration. The palate is more promising with marmalade-tinged citrus fruit, plenty of extract and a waxy texture. However, after returning to the bottle at the end of the tasting, I decided that I would prefer to revisit this in a year to assess it properly.