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Tasting notes
As is always the case, Domaine de la Bongran hold back each vintage for five years, allowing the estate to extend the ageing in tank and then bottle prior to release. Now bottled, delicate aromas of lemon curd and citrus oil, richer beeswax, mineral clay notes and white pepper aromas waft from the glass. It is, however, the textural finesse to the palate that is so special with this wine. It is silky soft and layered, beautifully caressing the mouth. There is lovely purity and richness to the unoaked citrus and riper melon fruit. The acidity keeps the energy in the wine bringing precision and balance. The depth and long finish to the 2019 is notable. Although delicious now, this wine will grow in complexity and reach its prime closer to its 10th year, if you can resist.
Critic scores
Average Score
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The just-released 2019 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet is showing nicely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange confit, honeycomb, pear and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's dense and layered, with bright acids and a charming, suave style despite its concentration. Aromatically, it's still a touch reserved and will really reward a few more years of bottle age.
The just-released 2019 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet is showing nicely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange confit, honeycomb, pear and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's dense and layered, with bright acids and a charming, suave style despite its concentration. Aromatically, it's still a touch reserved and will really reward a few more years of bottle age.
The 2019 Viré-Clessé had just been racked on my visit, therefore there was so much gas in this wine, as expected. Nevertheless, there is already fine balance and harmony, a keen line of acidity with a lovely spicy finish that lingers in the mouth. It’s a work in progress, but there is plenty of potential here. This is due to be bottled September 2022.
About the producer
Domaine de la Bongran is no ordinary Mâconnais estate. Since Jean Thévenet took over the domaine in 1972, this Viré-Clessé producer has become a cult name – with Jean a pioneer of organics and minimal intervention, as well as the estate’s unique wine style.