2017 Chevalier Montrachet

Great tangerines, nectarines and orange blossom on the nose. However, this is anything but a fruit bomb. Rather, it lives from the sensational interplay of fruit and a touch of creaminess from lees and minerality, the latter expanding through the very long, fresh finish. Better from 2021.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with a pure bouquet of lemons, orange blossom, mandarin oil, crushed chalk and subtle pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with a deep but reserved core, tangy acids and a long, mouthwatering finish. This is clearly a terrific Chevalier in the making, but it was still comparatively primary when I tasted it, so it will be interesting to revisit from bottle.

Tank sample. Quite deeply coloured for a young white. Almost 40% new oak – one 350-litre and three 228-litre. Some oak evidence on the nose but not OTT. Smells ripe, broad and creamy. Really broad and spicy on the palate without the tension of the Corton, though it does pull in to a fresh finish. Broad rather than massively concentrated but does have a salty finish. Citrus clarity on the finish. Actually quite gentle but great harmony and really clean-cut citrus fruit. (JH)