Hommage au Pinot Noir

Anchored in the 2020 vintage and incorporating one-third wine from a perpetual reserve initiated in 1990, Giraud’s NV Hommage au Pinot Noir was disgorged in April 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter. Sourced primarily from Aÿ and supplemented by fruit from Mutigny, Avenay-Val-d'Or, Dizy and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, it was matured in barrels between three to six years old. It unfurls with aromas of mirabelle plum, candied orange and apricot mingling with exotic spices. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, fleshy and precise, with vibrant acidity and a long finish. While the 2021-based releases show a more incisive profile, this 2020-based bottling offers greater gourmandise and textural appeal.

There’s no turning back once the enveloping nose of fresh nuts, raw brown sugar, chocolate and saffron has you in its grasp! Rich to the point of slight oiliness on the dense mid-palate, this unique champagne is very concentrated, but the incredible texture, which reaches a climax in the full, silky finish, is every bit as impressive. A cuvée based on the 2016 vintage with a generous dose of perpetual reserve (solera system), founded in 1990. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Small oak barrels played a crucial role here. This is a new cuvée released to replace their 100% Pinot Noir Code Noir. Their old Hommage à François Hémart is no longer produced either. 100% Pinot Noir aged for a total of 54 months: 12 months on lees without racking in small oak barrels, then six months rounding out on fine lees at ground temperature (a process apparently called 'mise retardée', followed by 36 months of ageing in bottle. Pale gold – paler than some wines from this house. And slightly fizzier. Pure Pinot on the nose and lip smacking. Full and rich, with the mousse sparking the palate to prevent overkill in terms of weight. Extremely long and powerful. Super-dense. Demands attention and is rich rather than sweet. On the finish this would cure the sorest of throats. It may even be worth ageing longer. (JR)