2006 Barolo Vecchia Vigna Delle Brunate

The 2006 Barolo Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate takes things to another level entirely with an intricate fabric of dark fruit, plums, prunes, roasted coffee beans, menthol and minerals that comes to life on a firm, sturdy frame. The wine reveals superb intensity, inner perfume and a long, exceptionally refined finish. The Brunate Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate is Marengo’s most extroverted Barolo and in 2006 it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Marco Marengo is one of Piedmont’s emerging superstar producers. Although the Marengo family has made wine here since 1899, it’s as if someone turned on a switch a few years ago, when the wines – the Barolos in particular – went from excellent to outstanding, a level they have maintained ever since. Marengo’s 2007s are every bit as promising as these 2006s, if not a touch deeper. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Good deep red. Deep, multidimensional nose offers raspberry, flinty minerality, brown spices and dried flowers, plus hints of cedar and underbrush. Dense, sweet and juicy; for all its intensity this conveys an impression of weightlessness, thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Very long on the aftertaste, with broad, serious tannins calling for patience. Still a baby, and with a great future ahead of it.