2013 Salon le Mesnil

The 2013 Salon is a huge wine. Dense and explosive, the 2013 possesses almost shocking textural richness for a young Salon. If offers a perfect example of the vintage in the Côtes des Blancs, a year in which ripeness and acids were both elevated. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, mint and white pepper explode onto the palate. Bright saline notes pull it all back together on the finish. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.

It is, of course, hugely exciting to meet each new vintage of Salon blindly with good champagne-savvy friends. That's how I met this beauty too. Reviews differed, with several finding the wine too developed and soft, while others praised the approachability and class. I am not entirely convinced that I understood the champagne completely correctly. It is clear, however, that the style is more directly appealing and less acidic than before with a Grand Siècle-like texture and aroma profile. Here, at the same time, there is a super-concentrated Mesnil fruit and a velvet carpet that is extremely rare from this light and stylish year. Don't be afraid to stock up as you usually do with Salon, but we'll let the future tell how big the profit is.