2020 Morgon Grands Cras

Full bottle 1,301 g.   Organically farmed vineyards. 60-year-old vines. I'm convinced these Godard wines are becoming more diaphanous and more finessed with every vintage. The strength of them is moving from tannic, extracted power to an inner, more intangible power. Her Grand Cras, which I've always found to be her most formidable, brooding, tannic wine over the years, is still commanding, still a masterpiece of granite-turned-into- wine, but there is a new fluidity, a soaring poetry, a vulnerability, that I have never found in this wine before. It tastes as if Mee Godard has made a connection with her vines that goes beneath the ground. The Grand Cras fruit is, as always, on the blue-black spectrum. We've been picking our own blackcurrants the last few days and I can taste them in this wine, along with the scribble of coal dust and inkiness that is so very Grand Cras. The tannins, though, are cursive, with their own lustrous flow. Liquid obsidian. What a beauty. (TC)

The intense elderberry and wild-thyme aromas pull you into this elegant and finely chiseled Morgon, where the balance of fine tannins, concentration and delicate fruit is spot-on. Very long finish with a lot of mineral freshness. Drink or hold.