2006 Beaune 1er Cru

Assembled from 17-18 parcels in various crus – each of which, vast and sophisticated new facilities permit to be separately vinified – Bouchard's 2006 Beaune du Chateau displays lift, brightness, and elegance, as such fulfilling their intention of an enticing introduction to the world of Beaune crus. Tart red raspberry is underlain by meat stock and chalk. Fine tannin and infectious juiciness make for lip-smacking savor even if not (for now, anyway) much complexity. This should prove lovely for at least 3-4 years. Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Light ruby. Slightly muddy perfume but quite precise fruit with marked acidity and fine tannins on the finish. Lots of drive and punch. Bitter cherries. Not very persistent. (JR)

Flirtatious and attractive in a light, blossomy way. Slightly sweet but lemony too. A very easy drink even if not from the top drawer. Slightly hot end. (JR)