2018 Arbois Poulsard

The 2018 Arbois Poulsard is striking. Crushed rose petal, savory herbs, mint, chalk, sweet red cherry, sweet tobacco and pine give the 2018 a brilliant aromatic upper register, while bright acids lend a palpable sense of energy. Readers will find a focused, ethereal red with striking translucence that shares some similarities with wines such as Carema that have a similar alpine character.

First vintage of a varietal Poulsard was in 2015, from the vineyards they had taken over from Jacques Puffeney in Arbois and in Montigny-lès-Arsures. Vines 25–60 years old on marly and sometimes sandy limestone soils. Fully destemmed. No punchdowns. Stored in a large foudre until bottling. This variety – pale and thin-skinned with a short harvest window – is always very pale even after two weeks’ maceration but they aren’t after more colour. Very, very pale, light and almost bricky. Delicate and with a sweetness of Victoria (orange) plum. Has a lovely combination of sweetness and wildness of fruit character. Chalky and still grippy tannins, fresh, bone dry, really long. Tension, freshness and polish, with much more flavour and personality than you would expect with such low alcohol. It is delicate but not especially light bodied. The epitome of tension and energy. High-wire act. (JH)