2009 Chablis Foret

The 2009 Chablis Les Forets is long, pure and beautifully delineated. There is a centeredness and focus to the fruit that is compelling. White stone fruits and flowers frame the delicate, haunting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019+. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

(from younger vines, planted in 1999 and 1992): Pale color. Reticent nose hints at lime. Then open-knit in the mouth, with good lemony cut to its sweet, creamy lemon and pineapple flavors. This should be delicious in its youth for its primary fruit. Raveneau recommends using it as an aperitif.

Bright green-tinged yellow. Pure, brisk aromas of lime and powdered stone. At once supple and juicy, with a piquant spicy quality to the citrus flavors. Not a particularly mineral style and very easy to drink. Leaves an almost sweet impression but Bernard Raveneau assured me that this wine is carrying less than one gram per liter of r.s.