2009 Collioure Cote Mer

The Rectorie 2009 Collioure Cote Mer - a cuvee from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan planted, as its name suggests, facing the sea - is gorgeously scented with ripe cherry and purple plum, rowan, almond extract, and licorice, which segue into a luscious palate performance tinged with the piquancy of fruit pit and hints of oak spice. There is a slightly dry spot in the finish which I perceive as wood-related, and which corresponds to what I have generally perceived as the weak point in Parce reds. That said, there is a lot to like here and that should remain likeable over at least the next several years. I did not visit Marc and Thierry Parce's Domaine de la Rectorie this year, though judging by the samples that came my way, that was clearly my mistake. Jack Siler Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 45 45 23 59