2018 Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewachs
Buying options
Tasting Notes
Scents of white peach, greengage, grapefruit and lemon are already strongly marked by their pits and peels. These are accompanied by high-toned evocations of mint and a whiff of chalk dust. Yet the polished palate delivers succulent fruitiness that’s unusual for a Riesling of the Grosses Gewächs genre, even though combined with invigorating zest, piquancy and tartness. Mint returns in the impressively sustained finish for a delightfully cooling influence that, along with sheer juiciness, complements chalkiness and counteracts any tendency of fruit pits and citrus zests toward bitterness. This strikes me as an unusually expressive Hubacker, not to mention an unusually forward, generously fruited (albeit also piquant and chalky) Grosses Gewächs.
Critic Scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
I really wasn’t ready to move on to this after the Kirchspiel. Slightly deeper gold than the Kirchspiel and so different in fruit profile. Smells richer and riper, the fruits ranging from golden plum through apricot and bitter orange. Spicy too, golden and savoury in character. On the palate, it surprises by the extreme freshness – not what I expected after the breadth and oily ripeness on the nose. Even so the balance is perfect – a miracle to get this fruit character together with this intense freshness. Mouth-watering, super-concentrated, bolder than the Kirchspiel but balanced in its more muscular components. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.