2015 Riesling Vinothek Smaragd

“This is the one Smaragd of the vintage where some botrytis was involved,” noted Knoll senior, a familiar circumstance for “Vinothek” bottlings at this address, but one that arguably renders the implications of “Vinothek” slightly misleading, since in my experience botrytis presence is more likely to speed up than to retard the bottle evolution of a dry German Riesling. The fruit came largely from Loibenberg (where botrytis had consigned a significant portion of the Pichlers’ fruit to B.A. and T.B.A.), and Knoll conceded that this wine “displays a bit of Auslese character.” Scents of candied lime and grapefruit peel, licorice, overripe pear, musk and mushroom make for a heady and complex aromatic display. The expansive, subtly oily palate reveals a corresponding complexity. Unfortunately, though, there is a slightly rough, drying spot to the finish and a dearth of primary juiciness, both traits I am inclined to ascribe to botrytis, and ones that reinforce the piquant impressions of citrus rind and pear seed. Still, there is certainly impressive persistence. I’ll be especially interested to see how this develops after bottling.