2007 Chateauneuf du Pape

The superb 2007s include a sleeper of the vintage, the reasonably priced 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape. Composed of 90% Grenache and equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre from 60-year-old vines, and aged primarily in tank with a small amount kept in 600-liter demi-muids, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as sweet, candied berry aromas intermixed with hints of boysenberries, black raspberries, kirsch, and lavender. Opulent, luscious, full-bodied, pure, and impressively built with soft tannins and good acids, it should drink well for 12-15 years. A breakthrough vintage for this estate, which was created in 2006 when the former proprietor, Henri Boiron, sold part of his holdings to his son-in-law, Olivier Hillaire. The brilliant consultant Philippe Cambie works with Hillaire, which no doubt explains the extraordinary quality that was achieved both in 2007 and 2008. This tiny estate of just under 10 acres produces two wines, a regular Chateauneuf du Pape and a 100% Grenache cuvee from 110-year-old vines, the Petits Pieds d’Armand. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Saturated ruby. Highly perfumed, spicy aromas of raspberry, Asian spices, garrigue and anise. Pliant red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, enlivened by zesty cinnamon and white pepper qualities. Finishes sweet, with a gentle snap of smoky minerals.

Dark and glowing. Looks very healthy. Extremely complex nose – so much going on! Very archetypal Châteauneuf-du-Pape with hints of animal, leather and masses of sweet, ripe fruit. This one pretty much explodes – already. Go for it! It should give enormous amounts of early to mid-term pleasure. Very long with notes of tea leaves and real richness. Outstanding. (JR)