2020 Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Apple and grapefruit are pungently accompanied by their bruised skins on a nose presages the concentration exhibited on a sappy yet fundamentally firm palate. Crushed stone and green wood hints contribute to the sense of austerity in a finish that is nonetheless impressively persistent and possessive of more than enough sheer juiciness to refresh. I think – nor does Keller disagree (though, to be sure, he’ll think I’m being too hard on it!) – that this simply needs time.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The hotter vintages have slightly changed the character of the Hubacker. I still remember it as a leaner wine, whereas today it has become a little more generous in terms of fruit, even adding gentle exotic touches to the local peach, pear and apple. Fine nuances of spice and wet pebble add complexity. But as always Klaus Peter Keller manages to get plenty of tension and vibrancy into the finish. (MS)
A very wide spectrum of fruit aromas pour from the glass, from Asian pear to a hint of exotic fruit, via mandarin orange. However, as it aerates, the cool, herbal side to this seriously structured, but finely etched dry riesling shows itself. Very long, dark finish that’s got so much tension. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.