2010 Gigondas Clos des Tourelles

Of course, the real star is the 2010 Gigondas Clos des Tourelles. This wine has surreal concentration, an almost liquid minerality with hints of spring flowers, red, blue and black fruits that represent a broad smorgasbord of dark berries, and an impressive finish that is long, textured and powerful. This wine will need several years of cellaring and should drink well for 15-20 years. (Not yet released) As I said last year, the Perrin family is a large one indeed, with brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois sitting at the top of the hierarchy and their four sons, Mathieu, Pierre, Thomas and Marc increasingly taking charge of their negociant business and their extensive estates throughout Southern Rhone. Now controlling over 1200 acres, as well as having a network of contracts, this operation is the equivalent of a major Southern Rhone train operating at high speed. Moreover, they are doing some incredible work in all price ranges. Other 2011s that the Perrin boys have produced include the following wines, which were very good across the board, especially for 2011s. In particular, readers need to take a hard look at their estate in Vinsobres, which is making the finest wines of that appellation, and more recently, what they are doing in Gigondas with the estate they purchased there, Clos des Tourelles. These are special wines. There are now three cuvees of Gigondas from the Perrins - the Gigondas La Gille, the Gigondas Vieilles Vignes and the Gigondas Clos des Tourelles. All three merit serious attention. Tasting the 2010s, which were all set to go into bottle right after my visit, certainly shows that this vintage is impressive, although I'm not sure that Marc and Pierre Perrin haven't done as good a job with their selections in 2011. Three cuvees of Gigondas look to all have outstanding potential and will probably be in bottle by the time this report is published. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Also tasted as a barrel sample, the 2010 Famille Perrin Gigondas Clos des Tourelles is a blend of close to 95% Grenache that is aged primarily in foudre. Coming from a lieu-dit that butts up against the village of Gigondas, it is more backwards and dense than the Vieilles Vignes, with classic mineral-laced black fruits, earth, and assorted floral nuances that lead to a beautifully textured, pure, and structured Gigondas that has masses of tannin kicking in on the finish. As with the Vieilles Vignes, this will also benefit from short term cellaring, and should shine for upwards of a decade or more.

Tank sample. All Grenache. The only wine in the range which is vinified sur place. Tronconic tanks and matured in foudre. Very dark indeed. Wonderful colour! Dramatic stuff – sample not quite as fresh as the others. One to watch? Kick of the heels on the finish. (JR)