2020 Chablis Bougros

This is generally the richest, most fruit-driven grand cru bottling chez Fèvre, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is a wine of particular distinction. Exhibiting aromas of peach, citrus blossom, bee pollen and oyster shell, it's a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that's ample but elegant, with racy acids and a long, saline finish.

William Fèvre own six of the 15 ha of this vineyard and are therefore the biggest producer. One part is 4 ha with vines that are 60–70 years old, on the plateau facing south-west. The deep soil gives very approachable wine. The 2-ha plot is on a steep, south-facing slope above the river and gives a more mineral, austere wine labelled Côte Bouguerots (see Goedhuis tasting notes ). They produce two very different wines. This example comes from the plateau, where high vine-training is needed. Yields have been reduced to give wines with concentration. For Didier this plot has improved the most. 45 hl/ha was a very good yield in 2020. High toned with lots of acidity. A bit more body than the Preuses and impressive green fruit on the finish. A good wine for food whereas the more delicate Preuses could be drunk without food. Juicy. Really gets the saliva flowing! (JR)

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru comes from six hectares of vines, southwest- and south-facing, forming the two different cuvées. The bouquet unfolds to offer lovely yellow fruit and oyster leaf aromas, well defined and quite generous. The palate is taut and crisp with fine acidity and moderate depth, but very pretty and composed toward the saline finish. There is plenty of substance already in situ and I foresee this aging with class.