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Tasting notes
Domaine de la Bongran’s wines offer exceptional value. This unique producer crafts wines that rival those of the Côte de Beaune in terms of complexity and ageability. Waiting to pick late, the Thévenet family produces rich wines, vinified entirely in stainless steel to allow the generous fruit to shine – the opulence held in check by a pithy minerality. With a touch of residual sugar and amazing freshness, the wines are released only when they deem them ready to drink. The estate considers 2018 a classic vintage, comparable to 2014 or 2012 in the hamlet of Quintaine. Warm but dry conditions allowed them to produce a wine that is typically Bongran in style. Layers of ripe lemon peel and steely minerality are complemented by lush apricots, ginger spice, plump pear, honeysuckle and the gloss of a honey glaze. The wine is typically viscous, with an almost velveteen palate, rounded by the touch of residual sugar (just over 6g/l). The acidity is vibrant and well-integrated, cutting through the luscious fruit. This will evolve beautifully over the next decade – a wine to savour with rich pâtés, hard cheeses and dishes with aromatic spice that will dance against its generous fruit backdrop.
Critic scores
Average Score
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J. Thevenet is not dissimilar to the bottle tasted at the Domaine a few months ago. Wild peaches, yellow plums and a hint of jasmine gently unfold on the nose, though you can instantly tell that it will have more to offer with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, perhaps having closed up a little in recent months, gradually showing apricot and kaki fruit. This is a delightful Viré-Clessé from a great producer. Tasted at Premnord in Burgundy.
Generous and demonstrative, the 2018 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet bursts from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, honeycomb, blanched almonds and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, its fleshy core of fruit girdled by bright acids, it concludes with a long, expansive finish. Somewhat reminiscent of the 2012, despite the two vintages having essentially nothing in common, it will offer an especially broad drinking window.
The 2018 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J. Thevenet, a selection in the vineyard on white marn soils, has a complex and well-defined bouquet with apricot blossom, jasmine, wild peaches and light floral scents. The palate is very well balanced considering the warmth of the growing season with a fine spine of acidity, dried honey and orange pith mixed with white pepper on the finish. Excellent.
About the producer
Domaine de la Bongran is no ordinary Mâconnais estate. Since Jean Thévenet took over the domaine in 1972, this Viré-Clessé producer has become a cult name – with Jean a pioneer of organics and minimal intervention, as well as the estate’s unique wine style.