2018 Gigondas Le Plateau

All Mourvèdre brought up in old demi-muids, the 2018 Gigondas Le Plateau is a stunning example of this variety that does everything right. Classic Mourvèdre notes of blueberries, mulberries, new leather, lavender, and ground pepper give way to a full-bodied, beautifully balanced, elegant 2018 that has a stacked mid-palate, flawless balance, silky tannins, and a great finish. It shows more tannins and structure with time in the glass, so give this beauty 2-3 years of bottle age, it should have 15-20 years of overall longevity. The young Julien Brechet continues to keep this estate in the top tier of producers, not only in Gigondas, but in the entire Southern Rhône. His 2018s show the more supple, elegant style of the vintage yet still bring ample richness and depth. These are seamless, Provençal, incredibly sexy wines to enjoy over the coming decade or so. The 2019s are slightly deeper, richer wines yet still show beautiful purity and elegance. In addition to the quality, these wines show singular character and are just a joy to taste through.

Shimmering magenta. Powerful red/dark berry liqueur aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and potpourri. A spicy hint of white pepper develops with air. Juicy and concentrated yet lively in style, offering sappy black raspberry, cherry compote and violet pastille flavors and a touch of allspice. The impressively long, focused finish features resonating floral and red berry notes and well-knit tannins that emerge slowly and steadily.

100% Mourvèdre. Aged for 18 months in concrete and old oak. Tank sample. Tasted blind. Glossy black fruit with modern, ripe concentration and lots of new oak spice in accompaniment. Firm and full in structure. Chewy texture that needs time to mellow. (RH)