2019 Cervaro della Sala
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Tasting notes
About 90% Chardonnay (no malo) and some Grechetto. From the only medieval castello the Antonori own, Castello della Sala. First vintage was 1985 but it wasn’t successful because they misunderstood malo. Making this wine was the first project on which Piero Antinori and Renzo Cotarella co-operated – before Cotarella became Antinori’s chief winemaker. At the same property they also make an all-Chardonnay Bramìto della Sala from a tiny high vineyard, as well as the Conte della Vipera Sauvignon/Sémillon blend. Cool year. Creamy, sweet, clean and tangy. This wine seemed ground-breaking in the late 1980s, when fine Chardonnays from outside Burgundy were so rare. Today it simply seems innocuous. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The Castello della Sala 2019 Cervaro della Sala relies on a time-honored formula in which the Grechetto grape adds vertical intensity and freshness and Chardonnay gives structure and sophistication. Indeed, Grechetto (with late-harvest clones) never goes above 10% of the blend, and no malolactic fermentation is performed on that variety in order to maintain its tonic and fresh personality. This stunning edition shows orchard fruit, honey and flinty notes. The Chardonnay ferments in neutral barrique from September to February, and fine-grained wood is prioritized to render a reductive winemaking technique to further preserve aromatic intensity. This mid-weight and age-worthy white is redolent of Golden Delicious apple, acacia flower and tropical fruit.
A mix of mulled yellow apples, crushed hazelnuts, dusty dried flowers and wet stone creates a rich and inviting display as the 2019 Cervaro della Sala evolves in the glass. It’s soft and enveloping, casting opulent waves of textural ripe orchard fruits and subtle savory spices across the palate. Nuances of wild herbs come together with lingering mineral tones under an air of vanilla custard as the Cervaro della Sala tapers off fresh yet with incredible length. This blend, primarily Chardonnay with a dollop of Grechetto, could use another year or two to fully unwind.
A full-bodied white with complex aromas of hawthorn, ripe peach, apricot, mango, lime, flint, toast and some smoke. Layered, concentrated and persistent with bright acidity and a firm, phenolic texture. Hint of vanilla. Very long and refined. Beautiful as always. Very approachable, but better from 2022.
About the producer
Marchesi Antinori is a leading Italian producer, historically based in Tuscany, who rose to fame after creating Tignanello – one of the first Super Tuscans . Combining tradition and innovation to craft fine wine, the family-owned firm has been a force in the Italian wine industry for over 600 years.