1999 Louis Roederer Cristal Vinotheque

Roederer's 1999 Cristal Vinothèque is endowed with tremendous power and concentration, especially for a Champagne of its age. Palate staining minerals, chalk, white pepper, mint, citrus and orchard fruit soar out of the glass. Tasted next to the Rosé the Blanc has a slightly more toasty character along with more body and a stronger presence of the mousse, which in this wine wraps around the fruit. At the time, Cristal was made from 37 parcels. The Pinots were a blend from Aÿ (where the wines are naturally riper) and Verzenay, Verzy and Beaumont-sur-Vesle, (where Pinots are nervy and taut), while the Chardonnay was sourced from Avize, Mesnil and Cramant. Dosage is 7-8 grams per liter. Disgorged in 2016.

Disgorged with six grams per liter dosage after seven years sur lattes and a further seven sur pointe, the 1999 Cristal Vinothèque wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of dried fruits, clear honey and crushed chalk aromas, complemented by hints of iodine and woodsmoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with ripe but lively acids and a textural, gourmand profile, concluding with a beautifully defined, elegantly chalky finish.

The nose has such beautiful, autolysis character with brown-mushroom and toasted-almond aromas. The nose has still-fresh lemons and oyster shell, with . Very smooth, pastry-like texture on the palate with even layers and a core of fresh lemons and peaches. The striking thing here is the balance and melted-together complexity. In a very great place. This spent seven years sur latte, seven sur pointe and was disgorged in 2014. Drink now.