2010 Philipponnat les Cintres

Disgorged in March 2020 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, the 2010 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Cintres bursts with aromas of shortbread, citrus zest, blanched almonds and pear. Full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's round and vinous, with broad shoulders and a rich core of fruit, concluding with chalky grip. Charles Philipponnat compares the 2010 with the "round" 1999 vintage, a persuasive analogy, and it will drink at its peak before both its 2009 and 2008 predecessors.

The 2010 Extra-Brut Les Cintres, 100% Pinot Noir, from the warmest section within the Clos des Goisses, is bright and finely sculpted. In 2010, Les Cintres doesn't quite have the body or depth of either the 2008 or 2009 (that would have been impossible for the year), but it makes up for that with its energy. Citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and mint bring out the brighter, more mineral-driven side of Pinot. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

This does smell like red burgundy! So rich-yet-dry. On the peacock's-tail finish the subtle Pinot shades come and go. This is worth concentrating on – a champagne for a fine dinner surely? Like the rest of the family this is beautifully balanced and has so much richness initially and yet finishes dry and appetising. Is this the best 2010 champagne produced?