2016 Cotes du Jura Oregane

A white I had not encountered for a while made its comeback in the 2016 Côtes du Jura Cuvée Oregane, a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from vines planted in 1963 and 1969 that often has an herbal, oregano-like nose (hence its name). This has a somewhat difficult nose with a touch of volatility, but the palate shows better and is nicely textured and balanced, with finesse and class. All these whites are ouillé, aged in topped-up barrels; so, in theory, they don't have flor, but one can imagine the cellars must be full of the veil yeasts...