2008 Vina Tondonia Reserva

Smells like red-apple skins. The snap of green runner beans. Mushroom compost. Coffee beans in yuzu syrup. How to describe this wine at the end of a long tasting… it's just unspeakably beautiful. A Lindenberg poem? Shadows across the cobbles? Sunset lighting up old stone walls? Roast chestnuts on a wintery night? It defies description. I wanted to spend hours with this wine, slipping under its spell with total abandon. Criminally underpriced.

Dark, bright-rimmed garnet. An expressive bouquet displays red and black currant, dried cherry, cigar box, vanilla, rose oil and cured tobacco scents plus a baking spice topnote. Appealingly sweet and energetic red and dark berry, floral pastille and chewing tobacco flavors show tight focus and spicy cut. Candied rose and vanilla notes linger on the long, lively finish, which is framed by smooth, well-judged tannins.

The nose of the 2008 Viña Tondonia Reserva is very elegant, fresh and with an herbal twist, starting to show the complexity of the aged wines that are sometimes still too young when they are released 10+ years from the vintage! The palate is medium-bodied, with lightness and depth, very classical with extra freshness and all that is needed for a long development in bottle. This is the more Tondonia of the two vintages I tasted side by side. There are notes of maple syrup, smoke, licorice and crisp fruit. The palate is more austere, crunchy and reveals the chalkiness of the soils. There's more definition and precision here.