2006 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde GG

From parcels of tiny-berried vines he acquired a decade ago, Keller now presents his inaugural 2006 Westhofener Riesling Abtserde Grosses Gewachs, a wine which was sold only at auction. (“Abtserde” designates the highest in elevation, active lime, and historical renown of the acres that officially constitute the “single vineyard” Brunnenhauschen). Grapefruit laced with wood smoke, peach kernel, and white pepper and chalk give this Riesling brightness, piquancy, and almost sizzling mineral cast that results in a formidable finishing demonstration of sheer grip. A faint bit of gum-numbing phenolics is in evidence but the sheer intensity and strikingly aggressive personality of this wine do not make it seem out of place. It will be fascinating to follow this for at least 2-3 years, and if the pattern set by top dry Keller Riesling holds, it may prove worth holding for longer. Klaus-Peter Keller says his grapes weren’t soft yet when the August rain hit, and he harvested late by local standards – from 6th-26th of October – by which time the nights were cool, which in his opinion preserved the aromas, warded-off botrytis, and allowed him to achieve normal crop levels, expressive ripeness and dry wines in the 11.9-13% alcohol range. Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463