2012 Charles Heidsieck Brut
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Champagne Millésime Brut is classic and harmonious. Layered and ripe with brioche, hazelnut, and baked apple, it is mouth-filling and round, with a pillowy mousse of ripe pear, custard, and orange oil. This is an assertive and forward wine with a timeless feel. Drink 2023-2043. Current cellar master Cyril Brun took over the position at Charles Heidsieck in 2015, having previously worked for LVMH at Veuve Clicquot for 15 years. Mr. Brun has been bold in taking the house into its next chapter by making advancements in the winery while also paying homage to the history of the house. First, he reintroduced old vinification principals of only using old barrels. He also began trials right away in 2015 to bring back the Champagne Charlie Cuvée, with the first edition, the 2017, just released into the market. Champagne Charlie was always labeled as a vintage wine, but it is now known to have been a blended style heavily reliant on reserve wines. The last release of the cuvée was the 1985 “vintage,” and the current release date coincides with Charles-Camille Heidsieck’s bicentennial. On the innovative side, Brun is using jetting technique at disgorgement for oxygen management, the idea being to expose the wine early to oxygen, and then to close it in order to best preserve the wine’s longevity and freshness. He has also expanded the range of cuvees while honoring previous cuvées. 2018 brought the relaunch of the Blanc de Blancs, a blended style from ten crus, from different years, with the initial release base coming from the 2016 vintage. Brun’s goal is to balance the opulence of the house style with freshness and preserve their hallmark silky texture throughout the range. Looking to the future, this house is providing a lot to be excited about, with an increasingly distinctive and diverse portfolio.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Soon to be released in magnum, the 2012 Brut Millésimé continues to show well, delivering aromas of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and beeswax and framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, racy and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a long, penetrating finish, this bottle was disgorged in summer 2021.
Very lemony (blossoms, zest and candied peel), with some red-berry and fresh tobacco-leaf notes. Impressive richness and concentration, the creaminess from lees beautifully matched by the fine mousse and mineral freshness. The latter also powers the structured and saline finish that makes a serious statement. A blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, disgorged in 2020. Drink or hold.
Both intense and discreet. Extremely tightly woven. Not as dry as some but certainly not simple. Tastes more youthful than many 2012s. Subtle and not flamboyant. You feel you could drink this in quantity! (JR)
About the producer
Founded by the original “Champagne Charlie”, Champagne Charles Heidsieck is one of the region’s smaller Houses but also one of its most quality-focused. From its Brut Réserve to its prestige cuvée, Blanc des Millénaires, the wines are rich, vinous and complex.