2005 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau Blanc

One of the finest white wines made in Chateauneuf du Pape is Vieux Telegraphe’s, and the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc, which is aged 50% in foudres and 50% in cuve and has a whopping 40% Clairette in the blend, reveals the texture of a terrific white Burgundy with a beautiful perfume of tropical fruits, minerals, and spring flowers. It’s a beauty and probably underrated as a top white wine. It should drink well for 2-4 years, maybe even longer. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons. The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400