2018 Gigondas Le Claux

Glistening ruby color. There are powerful, spice- and mineral-accented aromas of red fruit preserves, cherry-cola, succulent flowers and exotic spices on the highly perfumed nose. Palate-coating Chambord, kirsch, candied lavender and star anise flavors deepen steadily as the wine gains air. It manages to be both powerful and lithe, showing serious intensity and fine detail on a strikingly long, youthfully tannic and mineral-laced finish. Aged in 20% new oak.

Coming from a site just across the road from the Hominis Fides vineyard, the 2018 Gigondas Le Claux was not destemmed and was brought up mostly in used, larger barrels. Beautifully Provençal notes of black raspberries, camphor, flowery incense, and peppery spice emerge from the glass, and this beauty is reminds me of a Grand Cru Red Burgundy on the palate with its seamless, elegant, layered texture. It’s not a blockbuster like the 2016 and 2017 yet shines for its complex aromatics and flawless balance. It also has more than enough structure to evolve for two decades. Always one of my favorite tastings in the Rhône is with Château de Saint Cosme’s Louis Barruol and this feisty, talented, and passionate vigneron makes some of the best wines in France. The estate is located just outside the village of Gigondas and the lineup has been simplified today to include a classic Gigondas and three single vineyards. The wines are all made in the same fashion, with no destemming and aging in just about 100% used barrels, so what you get is a clean expression of each of the vineyards. Looking at the 2018s, these are undoubtedly more plush, soft, charming wines, yet they are still going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and should evolve beautifully. The 2019s look to be on another level, and my money is on this being another truly special vintage from this estate. These are gorgeous wines across the board, and I certainly have plenty in my personal cellar.

95% Grenache, 5% Syrah. Aged in oak (30% new). Tank sample. Tasted blind. Chocolate, baked cherries and savoury spice. Pretty aggressive tannic punch on the palate. Needs time to coax out the complexity and relax the astringency. (RH)