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Tasting notes
The 2012 Cristal is the first made entirely from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Passionfruit, mango, spice and ginger open first, but it is the wine’s textural richness and volume that stand out most. The 2012 is one of the most opulent, flamboyant recent Cristals. Those qualities feel especially amplified in this tasting, perhaps because of the presence of wines from the surrounding vintages. It was a complicated season, as mildew reduced yields significantly, resulting in an especially rich Cristal that seems to be gaining intensity with time in bottle. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: 2020. (AG)
Critic scores
Average Score
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The second bottle of this that was opened was more expressive than the first one. Fragrant nose of lime zest, dried flowers, fresh almonds and flint. Bright and juicy on the quite firm, medium- to full-bodied palate. This is now in the no-man’s-land between youthful vitality and mature patina, and this really expanded after some aeration in the glass. Layered structure at the long, linear finish. From the first vintage in which the vineyards were cultivated biodynamically.
Disgorged in 2019, dosage 7.5 g/l. 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, 32% of the cuvée is fermented in oak. Nine years spent on the lees. Amazingly challenging year with all the viticultural hazards possible, but a limited yield has brought concentration. First year Cristal was all organic. Seems quite broad compared with the precision of the 2013 but has a wonderful undertow. It’s a little bit of a brute. The 2013 alongside does no favours to this bigger wine. High-toned slightly candy notes, but obviously a very superior champagne. (JR)
The first vintage from 100% biodynamically farmed vineyards, the 2012 Champagne Cristal is a brilliant effort based on 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Always from the same blocks (45 blocks) and 40-year-old vines, it’s more rounded and supple than the 2008 and has plenty of oomph in its apple blossom, white flower, chalky minerality, spice, and toasted bread aromas and flavors. With gorgeous purity of fruit, a seamless, layered mouthfeel, flawless balance, and a terrific sense of minerality on the finish, this is a beautiful, elegant yet rich Cristal to enjoy over the coming 20 years or so.