2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

Bottled only in magnum, the Châteauneuf Du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum is consistently one the greatest young Grenache releases I taste in any year, and I’m happy to report that the 2017 is no exception. Incredible kirsch liqueur, dried flowers, crème caramel, garrigue, pepper, incense, and herbes de Provence notes all literally soar from the glass, and it has a rare sense of intensity paired with incredible complexity. Full-bodied, remarkably textured, seamless, and multi-dimensional on the palate, it has silky tannins and a huge, opulent style that’s hard to describe. Do your best to give bottles 4-5 years in the cellar, and this singular, magical wine will knock your socks off over the following 15-20 years. I know it will shock long time readers, but yes indeed, Clos Saint Jean has again made some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. Enough can’t be said about the quality coming from the team of Vincent and Pascal Maurel, as well as consultant Philippe Cambie, and these wines possess that rare mix of incredible power and richness pared with a sense of weightlessness and elegance. Looking at the 2017, these remind me of the estate’s 2009s with their incredibly Provençal, sexy, full-throttle styles. I’m sure alcohols are pushing 16% so these aren’t for those looking for lightweight wines, yet they remain pure, balanced, and are simply profound wines. The 2018 showed beautifully as well and while they don’t quite have the mid-palate depth of the 2017, they pack plenty of power and stay pure, balanced, and silky. These are majestic, magical wines that could come from nowhere else.