2012 Gosset Grand Millesimes

Since Gosset makes a point of commercializing wines only when they deem them ready, the 2012 Grand Millésime Brut will be released at the end of this year, while the 2010 and 2008 continue to wait in the wings. The wine is still quite tightly wound after its recent disgorgement, unfurling in the glass with a youthful bouquet of warm biscuits, apple, lemon and peach that picks up a more pronounced smoky top note as the wine sits in the glass. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a deep and concentrated core, incisive acids and a precise, saline finish. This is a muscular vintage of the Grand Millésime that seems likely to evolve slowly.