2017 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde E. Spatlese

Picked in conjunction with the corresponding Grosses Gewächs, this leads with scents of lemon, mirabelle and quince. The lusciously fruited, glossy but buoyant palate adds an animating tang of seedy white currant that sets up an invigorating and dynamic counterpoint with the wine’s sweetness and with the faintly jellied aspects of quince and mirabelle that feature alongside their fresh fruit expressions. A cooling inner-mouth hint of mint and a faint aura of white raisin add further contrast and allure. In keeping with themes familiar from this collection’s memorable Grosse Gewächse, the soaring, superbly sustained finish exhibits striking vibrancy as well as a palpable sense of chalky impingement rare in a sweet Spätlese. What’s more, for all of the richness and flirtation with overripeness on display here, there is infectious juiciness to refresh and encourage the next sip.