1989 Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts

It has been almost 15 years since I last tasted the 1989 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Beaux Monts. This was an impressive showing for a 27-year-old wine that comes from one of Lalou Bize-Leroy's earliest vintages of her domaine. It has a beautiful pixelated bouquet with strawberry preserve, sous-bois, morels and autumn leaves. This is sleek and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with pitch-perfect acidity, still surprisingly youthful, long and quite plush in the mouth with plenty of vigour on the refined finish. It appears to be maturing at a glacial pace. This is a supremely well-crafted wine from what was a hit and miss Burgundy vintage. Tasted February 2016.

Domaine Leroy’s 1989 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts was incredibly enjoyable. Still youthful and vibrant, it was full of fruit, with just the barest suggestions of more advanced notes.