2008 Bollinger Grande Annee

Bollinger have spent more than a decade chasing oxidation issues. Their famously oxidative style was compromised by their lack of correct disgorgement management, and bottle variation was rife. This was confusing for many fans of the marque who were looking for “oxidative” and not “oxidised”. After a change of bottle shape, and the introduction of “jetting” at disgorgement, it looks as if Bollinger have returned to former glories. The 2008 Grand Année is the best wine I have tasted from the domain since the 1995! Leaning on the structure and expressive nature of Pinot Noir in 2008, we have a baseline of racy pear fruit that is slowly becoming juicy. Precise and fresh, although the oxidative complexity is there too, the wood adding amplitude as well as spicy notes of ginger, vanilla, and almond. Lovely mouthfeel, ample balance between power and finesse and so long. Excellent!

The 2008 Champagne La Grande Année is another brilliant 2008 that delivers the goods. Straight-up awesome notes of stone fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle, and an incredible, liquid rock-like minerality all emerge from the glass, and it develops more nuance, spice, toasted bread, and an almost Alsatian Riesling-like petrol character over the course of the evening. It’s a full-bodied, rich, powerful Champagne, yet like the top 2008s, it has brilliant precision, purity, and focus. It’s unquestionably one of the finest versions of this cuvée ever produced, although it needs another 4-5 years of bottle age to hit prime time. It should keep for 3-4 decades. Bravo!

Bollinger's 2008 Grande Année is rich, ample and full-bodied, with all of the pedigree of the vintage on display. Dried pear, dried flowers, chamomile, red plum and mint develop as the 2008 shows the breadth and creaminess that are such signatures of the Bollinger house style. A whole range of brighter, more floral and chalky notes appear later, adding translucence and energy. The 2008 is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay taken across 18 crus, and it is the Pinot that very much informs the wine in both flavor and texture. More importantly, the 2008 is one of the best Grande Années I can remember tasting. Bollinger fans won't want to miss it. (AG)