2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Haut Brusquieres

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale combines concentration with finesse and complexity in a way rarely seen in such an expansive, full-bodied wine (16% alcohol on the label). Notes of red raspberries and maraschino cherries lead the way, but they're supplemented by hints of garrigue, tea, roses and dried spices in this 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah. Mouthfilling and silky, it shows terrific length and hides the warmth that often plagues dry wines of this magnitude.

From the northern part of the appellation and a mix of Grenache, Syrah, and Counoise, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Speciale Les Hautes Brusquières boasts a saturated purple color as well as impressive, yet closed and tight notes of dark fruits, ground pepper, and garrigue. It opens up with time in the glass, is medium to full-bodied, has loads of structured, and is another seriously impressive wine from this estate. Do your best to hide bottles for 3-4 years. One of the finest run estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is the Maret family’s Domaine de la Charbonnière, which is in the heart of the appellation, just off the route to Courthezon. They produce four Châteauneuf du Pape (readers should read last year’s report on the 2016 and 2017s for a description of each of the cuvées), all meriting attention. In addition, they’ve added two new Vacqueyras releases, bringing the total from that appellation to three cuvées. The 2017s aren’t far off what was achieved in 2016, and the 2018s all showed beautifully, with more depth and richness that most in the vintage.

Beautifully pure, detailed and fresh, red-fruit aromas with lightly toasty oak spice. There’s such finesse, power and centrally focused fruit on the palate here; the tannins work around the edge and the core is pristine. Drink or hold.