2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Prestige

Including more Syrah, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Prestige is 70% Grenache 20% Mourvèdre, and the rest Mourvèdre and other permitted varieties. While it’s brought up mostly in foudre, it has 10% in demi-muids and 30% in cuve tronconique. With thrilling purity of fruit, notes of black raspberries, blackberries, ground pepper, garrigue, and a distinct sense of minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ripe, sweet tannins, a beautifully opulent texture, and a great finish. It's another rock star of a 2017 from superstar winemaker Didier Negron. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste any 2018s from this estate but, unquestionably, their 2017s are some of the wines of the vintage.

For some inexplicable reason, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Prestige failed to live up to my lofty expectations from last year. Perhaps it is just in a closed state after bottling? It's a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% other permitted varieties that seems more subdued than the Reserve, although it does have some of the same floral and black cherry notes. It's full-bodied, creamy and rich, with a long, velvety finish that carries hints of chocolate and licorice. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 5% others. Tasted blind. Heavy-set and closed. The black fruit is ripe and well defined enough, but there is definite burn on the palate, and not enough elegance or perfume to provide complexity. Muscular, yes. Detailed? Not so much. (RH)