2017 Chateauneuf du Pape

Saturated ruby. An expansive bouquet evokes smoke- and spice-accented raspberry, cherry and blueberry, along with suggestions of candied flowers, musky earth and baking spices. Densely packed red/blue fruit preserve, fruitcake and licorice flavors become livelier through the back half. This blends richness and energy with a steady hand and finishes very long and chewy, with steadily building tannins lending final grip.

Shimmering violet. Pungent aromas of red and blue fruit preserves, potpourri and smoky minerals, along with a spicy nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Youthfully chewy and deeply concentrated, displaying sappy black raspberry, bitter cherry and boysenberry flavors and suggestions of candied lavender and licorice. Shows impressive finesse for its depth and finishes extremely long and precise, with building tannins that meld smoothly with the wine's densely packed fruit.

Rich and thick on the nose, but still retains that all-important lightness of touch on the palate. Much more fruit than the 2010. Soy and blackcurrant on the finish, rounded and fragrant with lovely violet length. Substance with silkiness. (RH)