2006 Chateauneuf du Pape

From a strong vintage, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape boasts a deep ruby/purple color followed by beautiful notes of kirsch liqueur, licorice, spring flowers, and a hint of underbrush. Peppery, spicy, elegant, rich, full-bodied, and long, with surprising structure for the vintage, it will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age, and should age well for 15-18 years. Formerly Domaine La Roquete (and mis-spelled last year as Roquette), the Brunier family has changed the name to Clos La Roquete as they recognize this is a true “clos” (a totally walled vineyard). As I have indicated in several recent Chateauneuf du Pape reports, this is one of the estates for which the Bruniers have pushed the envelope of quality higher and higher in each new vintage. This is the finest group of wines they have yet produced, and readers should take serious note. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (646) 223-2200

The Brunier brothers’ blend from several different terroirs is fresh and lively on the nose with fine, sandy tannins. There’s moderately good punch but it’s overall a little restrained somehow. The tannins are pretty dominant at this stage. Wait. Less impressive than I remember the 2004 being. (JR)

Deep ruby. The nose offers a seductive bouquet of smoky raspberry and cherry, complemented by fresh flowers and baking spices. Sweet red fruit flavors are accented by licorice and bitter chocolate, and finish with impressive focus and grip. This is strikingly elegant.