2017 Chateauneuf du Pape

Now that it's in the bottle, Beaucastel's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape comes across as full-bodied and rich, but also a bit shut down and reticent on the nose. With air, black olives and asphalt give way to black cherries and briery spice notes, backed by velvety but substantial tannins and a long, richly textured finish. Given a few years in the cellar, I have no doubt this will drink well for the next 15-plus years.

Dark bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe black and blue fruit liqueur, incense, smoked meat and candied lavender qualities on the deeply perfumed, spice-accented nose. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering intense black raspberry, bitter cherry and fruitcake flavors that tighten up and turn livelier with air. Shows plenty of energy for a hot-vintage wine and finishes impressively long and chewy, with mounting tannins and repeating smoke and floral notes.

The maturity of the roussanne is immediately apparent with such richness, ripeness and attractive fleshy drive on the palate and a phenolic structure that sustains the length handsomely. Concentrated and super fleshy. A blend of 60% roussanne, with grenache blanc and other varieties. Drink over the next eight years.