2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Secret de Sabon

I tasted the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon blind, alongside the other 2016s from this fine estate, and failed to discern a huge difference between it and the impressive Prestige or Reserve bottlings. I don't doubt that time will prove my rating to be conservative, hence the + sign. Winemaker Didier Negron retained some stems in this cuvee, and they show for the moment in its slightly herbal-minty notes, but they're balanced by ripe Grenache fruit that suggests apricot and plum. Lavender and thyme join in on the creamy, lush finish of this full-bodied but elegant offering.

Unquestionably the deepest, richest wine in the lineup, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret des Sabon offers sensational notes of blackberries, cassis, crushed rocks, graphite, and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, ultra-fine, seamless, and pure, it has more elegance and purity than the 2010 and is reminiscent of the 2001. It's a gorgeous, extraordinary, layered, seamless Châteauneuf-du-Pape to drink over the coming two decades or more. I continue to love the wines from Didier Negron at Roger Sabon, yet I always feel they’re underappreciated in the market. While they can certainly be big, rich wines (especially the Secret des Sabon), these are always classic, elegant wines that have beautiful Provençal charm. There are four Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases: the entry level Les Olivets (first made in 1955) from younger vines and completely destemmed; the Cuvée Reserve from a single vineyard and 70-80% Grenache, and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, aged in foudre and oak tanks; the Cuvée Prestige based on 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the rest mostly Mourvèdre that’s aged in foudre, oak tanks, and demi-muids; and the smallest production cuvée (there’s normally just 100 cases produced), the Le Secret des Sabon based mostly on Grenache. The estate has made beautiful wines in both 2016 and 2017.

Lurid ruby. Ripe red berries, cherry liqueur and hints of musky herbs, vanilla and potpourri on the highly perfumed, mineral-accented nose. Palate-staining Chambord and cherry flavors show excellent clarity, supple texture and a hint of spicecake that builds slowly as the wine opens up. The energetic, seamless, impressively long finish repeats the floral and red fruit notes, while rounded tannins add shape and gentle closing grip.