2016 L'Hetre

The 2016 L’Hêtre is the debut 12-hectare Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux from Fiona Morrison and Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin, continuing the titular tree theme (the name means “beech tree”). The vineyard was certified organic when the Thienponts acquired it. It has a delightful, well-defined red cherry and raspberry bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with dusky red fruit and quite sharp in terms of acidity, although that translates as freshness on the chewy finish. The saline aftertaste is welcome, although there is also a nagging bitterness. A good debut, but I’m sure there is better to come.

Very dark crimson, almost black at the core but bright at the rim. This smells richer, sweeter and more intense than the second wine La Raison d'Hêtre. Rich in blackcurrant fruit with a savoury dark glow to make it more than just fruit. Just a touch of smoky char even though the oak is well in the background, a seductive fruit sweetness. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced, the alcohol perfectly integrated in the tannic structure and fruit core with a fresh tang that runs through the middle. There's a cool fluidity to it even with its depth and length. Fine, dry, lingering and savoury aftertaste. Impressive first vintage with a promising future in the bottle. I opened this on a Sunday evening and it was still tasting fresh and vibrant four days later. This is a very classy wine, and the tannins tell you everything: fine, definite, building in the mouth but in perfect balance with the fruit and freshness. Blue-blooded Castillon. Catch it while you can.

The first release from the new property bought by Jacques Thienpont and his sister in 2016. It is perched on the end of the limestone plateau and has stunning views. Previously owned by and named after a Belgian family called Goubau. The 10 hectares of organically farmed vines are surrounded by woods and pastures. At 100 m on the St-Philippe d'Aiguilhe plateau, the highest point in Bordeaux. In 2017 they bought the adjoining property, Ch Montagne, with 25 ha, of which 6 ha are planted. Nephew Maxime Thienpont is the winemaker. The vineyards face south-east and are on the limestone plateau or on limestone, clay and chalk slopes. 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc fermented in concrete and oak vats and aged 15 months in French oak barrels, including one-third new. Very dark crimson, almost black at the core but bright at the rim. This smells richer, sweeter and more intense than the second wine La Raison d'Hêtre. Rich in blackcurrant fruit with a savoury dark glow to make it more than just fruit. Just a touch of smoky char even though the oak is well in the background, a seductive fruit sweetness. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced, the alcohol perfectly integrated in the tannic structure and fruit core with a fresh tang that runs through the middle. There's a cool fluidity to it even with its depth and length. Fine, dry, lingering and savoury aftertaste. Impressive first vintage with a promising future in the bottle. I opened this on a Sunday evening and it was still tasting fresh and vibrant four days later. This is a very classy wine, and the tannins tell you everything: fine, definite, building in the mouth but in perfect balance with the fruit and freshness. Blue-blooded Castillon. Catch it while you can. (JH)