2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale

Brilliant ruby-red. A highly expressive bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, cherry cola, incense and spicecake, and a smoky mineral element contributes energetic lift. Velvety in texture and deeply concentrated, offering intense, spice-accented Chambord, cherry liqueur and candied lavender flavors firmed by a spine of juicy acidity. Concentrated but graceful in style. Finishes very long, spicy and precise, with youthfully firming tannins adding closing grip. (JR)

Almost entirely Grenache, from parcels planted in 1901 and 1902, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale is a stunner. Scents of roses, black tea and raspberries set the scene, while the palate is full-bodied but silky and nearly weightless, delivering an intricate, detailed interplay of red fruit, dried spices and orange zest. Despite what must be 15% alcohol or more, it shows absolutely no sign of heat.

The flagship is the Grenache-dominated 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Imperiale, which comes from vines planted in 1902 and was destemmed and aged in concrete tanks. Awesome notes of blackberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, violets, and graphite all emerge from this tight, full-bodied, concentrated and backward Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Possessing incredible purity of fruit, a concentrated yet fresh, structured profile, and a huge finish, it just needs time to shine. While the domaine of Raymond Usseglio has sat in the shadow of Domaine Pierre Usseglio in the past, that is changing under the helm of the young Stéphane Usseglio and the estate is making singular, world-class wines today. They have a new state of the art cellar located on the northern edge of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and pull from around 45 acres of vines, mostly in the center and northern part of the appellation. From this, they produce a number of cuvées, yet the core is the traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape, based on 80-90% Grenache and the balance Mourvèdre, the La Parte des Anges, based primarily on Mourvèdre, and the Cuvée Imperiale, based on tank-aged old vine Grenache. They have a Cuvée Girard which is basically a tweaked version of the traditional cuvée and have introduced a new Les Apotres cuvée, an amphora-raised blend of all the permitted varieties. Bottom line, the estate is making beautiful wines.